Port Hardy 11 June 2023

Back to civilization (?)

Up anchor in Oliver Cove early, and through Green Passage and around to the (?) Channel and Shearwater. Early on, we saw this laid-back Sea Otter sunning himself unconcernedly as Eric drove the boat around him. A certain amount of ferment on the Great Bear II as we four passengers and Chef Jan and Crew-person Marjan were all getting ready to debark and catch the Goose back to Port Hardy.

Along the way, the distant landscape reminded us all of the wonders we'd seen back of beyond . . . back where the islands rear out of the sea vertically, are often snow-topped, and nurture amazing Nature.

While Marjan drove Great Bear II, Eric reviewed these pages to make sure they didn't reveal too much.

Outbound a week ago, there'd been some chatter 'aboot the Raven' that often visits the boat from the lighthouse just around the corner from Bella Bella, across the channel from Shearwater Marina, our point of departure and return.

This time around, Jen plied him with 'four times frozen' potato skins, of which he seemed to approve, as he came back for seconds. Wary like all wild things, he was nevertheless willing to come close, perch on the rail and size up the risks before dropping to the foredeck for his reward.

Welcome to Shearwater!

I was just beginning to understand how this week has thoroughly spoiled me for the trappings of civilization.

We moved our gear off the Great Bear II and awaited the appearance from the south of the Goose, our ride outta here.

The flag on the right is the Canadian First Nations Flag:

The Goose arrived and settled gracefully on the bay, and roared in to the dock, where it was setup to, listing steeply to facilitate loading. Supplies for the Bear were debouched, plus two replacement crew. Then we loaded our stuff, put on life jackets, and clambered and strapped in for the hour flight across the barrens to Port Hardy airport – taking off from water . . .

This sweet old plane, obviously in peak condition and much loved by her owners, was apparently one of 345 built in the late 1930s. Upon boarding, the pilot gave his 'standup comedy routine' including the news that there were ear plugs in the seat pockets 'because the plane can be a little noisy.'

Here's Jen ear-plugged for the ride in the noisy Goose.

Rochelle took photos marked with this R

Stuff reclaimed, cars fetched, we exchanged a round of hugs and promises to stay in touch (and we will! we made 'family' on this trip.)

Predictably, I suppose, Chef Jen had outfitted us with an over-the-top lunch, which we ate while washing our clothes at Port Hardy's only laundromat.

Port Hardy being a human settlement right on the fringe of Great Nature, the birdlife, especially Bald Eagles, was more in evidence and closer than anywhere else on the voyage.

Too early for our room, we set up in the lobby of the Kwa'lilas and posted obsessively for a couple of hours, then moved to our room, where I kept obsessing. Pretty pages, good pictures, lots of Grizzlies. Wow! what a trip.

I reflected on our hosts, Captain Eric, one of the finest humans I have ever had the pleasure to meet; Marjan, crew person extroadinaire, always helpful yet amazingly human and open; Chef Jen, too: open and modest yet gifted. 

And the Nature. Being so embedded for a week, on a boat for all but a few minutes, surrounded by magnificence . . .

Here in Port Hardy, the works of man seem thin and tawdry.

Good dinner though: Back to Karai Sushi and Korean Grill Korean salad and a Korean Wonton soup that looked so good we forgot to take a picture. Not up to Jen's standards, but ...